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Chainsaw Advice

Today I met someone who said, he prefers Dolmar over Stihl sometimes, because they are cheaper for the same quality. But he said, it would depend on the model.

He had every thing from Stihl with Akku in the van and several Dolmar chainsaws.
His opinion was that you get from Dolmar chainsaws for 500 € for which you have to pay 1000 from Stihl. I think he ment the large ones.

He said he prefers the small leave blower from Dolmar and the large one from Stihl.

My brother has a small Stihl for 450€ or 500€ I guess. It is very fast to activate it, without any tools. Especially if you want to cut from time to time something, and not a whole forest in one rush that is very nice.

I like the expensive Stihl patrol too. It doesn't stink so heavily as hand mixed stuff.

For the trousers:

I know someone who buyes only trousers which protect 360 Degrees around the leg after once he cut himself from behind in the leg.

Have a look at tree climbers sites for that.
If it's full of Silky saws and ropes and so on, it should be the right page.

May be, you can find it under the word ARBORIST.
There is no point buying class C chainsaw trousers unless you're actually climbing a tree as a tree surgeon or are utterly incompetent. Applying the chain brake as you walk around or before you put the saw down on the ground is quite sufficient. Class C trousers are not only stiff and heavy but they'll make you sweat like a sweaty thing, even in the depths of winter.. Even a pair of class A chainsaw pants from SIP will be the thick end of a hundred pounds, gloves or mits (with Kevlar on the back of the left hand) will set you back fifteen to twenty five pounds and a hard hat with mesh visor and ear defenders might be another forty pounds (there should be no vat payable on any of this stuff) chainsaw boots or Kevlar spats are an absolute must if you're working at ground level.
 
A friend of mine has a stihl chainsaw.

He only has it for occasional use on his smallholding.
Went to use it one day and it would not start no matter what he tried.
Took for a service and the chap told him the failure was due to congealed oil and fuel.
He recommended him to turn off the fuel and let the machine run itself dry before storing.
Empty remaining fuel in the tank and store dry until wanted for next use.

How true this is I don't know......but may be of use??
Absolutely spot on Bill, also once fuel and 2 stroke oil are mixed I give it a shelf life of about 6 months. Some engines are twitchier than others. Old fuel goes through my Jonsered saw, it seems to do alright but it's a big old engine with a short chain and bar so it isn't doing much work.
 
I've had a Husqvarna for 16 uears and it's never missed a beat,you get what you pay for most times.
 
That's an error!
A Husqvarna is a good investment.

But usually now a days you pay a lot and get nothing! You have to inform yourself now a days.
 
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