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Chainsaw Advice

You can have this

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that

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and that

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(The point is just, that it's located 40 km northern Berlin.)

:rofl:
 
With regards PPE, I have bought ear defenders, mesh face shield/helmet & protective gloves.

Can anyone recommend a good pair of chaps/safety trousers?
 
With regards PPE, I have bought ear defenders, mesh face shield/helmet & protective gloves.

Can anyone recommend a good pair of chaps/safety trousers?



Stihl trousers mate. Tad expensive but there built with the chain in mind... full of fibre to clog and choke up the chain if need be :thumbsup:
 
A firm called SIP manufacture pretty much most of the protective chainsaw gear. Their unbranded gear is made to exactly the same standards as branded goods.
 
Today I met someone who said, he prefers Dolmar over Stihl sometimes, because they are cheaper for the same quality. But he said, it would depend on the model.

He had every thing from Stihl with Akku in the van and several Dolmar chainsaws.
His opinion was that you get from Dolmar chainsaws for 500 € for which you have to pay 1000 from Stihl. I think he ment the large ones.

He said he prefers the small leave blower from Dolmar and the large one from Stihl.

My brother has a small Stihl for 450€ or 500€ I guess. It is very fast to activate it, without any tools. Especially if you want to cut from time to time something, and not a whole forest in one rush that is very nice.

I like the expensive Stihl patrol too. It doesn't stink so heavily as hand mixed stuff.

For the trousers:

I know someone who buyes only trousers which protect 360 Degrees around the leg after once he cut himself from behind in the leg.

Have a look at tree climbers sites for that.
If it's full of Silky saws and ropes and so on, it should be the right page.

May be, you can find it under the word ARBORIST.
 
Well, I decieded to get a quote for a service as Im still very new to chainsaws and am more at home under the bonnet of a Morris 1000.
Was told by the 'chainsaw specialist' that due to the age of the saw he would advise to buy a new more cost effective one (instantly points at off brand battery power saw for £250 next to his counter).....
I said Id rather have a brand I trust and that the saw works fine, I just wanted an 'MOT' done for my own piece of mind...... he then quoted me £150 and I nearly slapped him.....
 
Well, I decieded to get a quote for a service as Im still very new to chainsaws and am more at home under the bonnet of a Morris 1000.
Was told by the 'chainsaw specialist' that due to the age of the saw he would advise to buy a new more cost effective one (instantly points at off brand battery power saw for £250 next to his counter).....
I said Id rather have a brand I trust and that the saw works fine, I just wanted an 'MOT' done for my own piece of mind...... he then quoted me £150 and I nearly slapped him.....





It’s hard to find honesty these days
 
If it's running fine don't try and fix it, it's about achieving a balance between chain tension, tick over and fuel mix. The only real service work you'll need to do is the occasional spark plug clean and adjust and getting the fuel mix/ tick over screws set right for your fuel (I'd leave those alone for now if it's working ok) for fuel I use 97RON super unleaded and stihl 2stroke oil.
Always refill the chain oil reservoir before refuelling the saw so you don't forget
Chain sharpening requires a round file and file guide the right size for your chain to get the angle constant as you sharpen the cutting edges. A flat file and depth gauge are used for setting the depth of the rakers. (This decides how much each tooth shaves off at each pass) There are plenty of tutorials available.
Chainsaws are very simple to maintain with minimal tools, it's important to clean around inside the clutch housing and make sure that the chain oiler is flowing well and free of crud every few hours and not to get the chain into the soil or dirt. Rather than cut all the way through a log, cut most of the way and then roll it over before finishing your cut.
 
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If your chain, chain bar and clutch sprocket are badly worn it is best to replace all three at the same time but most chain faults are caused by uneven sharpening. It is important to file each tooth by the same number of strokes and at the correct angle. A chain bar and sprocket will normally last the lifetime of three chains if you sharpen regularly.
Sharpening your chain regularly will mean you use less fuel and much less physical effort. When you feel that you're getting tired or making mistakes stop cutting as soon as you reach a point where the job can be safely left off from.
 
@Ystranc
Good info mate 👍 may be a daft question but how do you keep track on the teeth when sharpening so one doesn’t sharpen the same ones :D
 
A lot of people tie a thread on the tooth they start to keep track, I mark my starting point with a metal marker :)
 
A friend of mine has a stihl chainsaw.

He only has it for occasional use on his smallholding.
Went to use it one day and it would not start no matter what he tried.
Took for a service and the chap told him the failure was due to congealed oil and fuel.
He recommended him to turn off the fuel and let the machine run itself dry before storing.
Empty remaining fuel in the tank and store dry until wanted for next use.

How true this is I don't know......but may be of use??
 
@Ystranc
Good info mate 👍 may be a daft question but how do you keep track on the teeth when sharpening so one doesn’t sharpen the same ones :D
I don't bother marking the first tooth I sharpen, the bright clean cutting edge is pretty obvious. Plus if you do accidentally go beyond the first tooth that you started with it feels different when you run the file over it, the file just slips smoothly over the cutting edge rather than having the slight resistance that you'd normally feel on a worn edge.
 
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