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For Sale Custom knives made to order

Gbhcustomknives

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I'm a custom knife maker from the Staffordshire area and can make any type of knife except folding knives haven't delved into that yet but anybody looking for a bushcraft camping knife or skinning knife let me know here are a couple I've done
 

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Very nice ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป you definitely have a talent for that ๐Ÿ˜

dabbled in the knife making a few times, tho nothing as nice as yours.....
 
hello @Gbhcustomknives , got a "wish list" question for you.

i've been coveting a "big chopper" for a while now, something like this (just and example for discussion purposes):

big-chopper.jpeg

assuming a carbon steel blade, plain or rough finish on the flat, blade length of 12ish inches, full tang, exposed tang at the butt (as a striker), stock thickness of 5 or 6 mm, sabre or convex grind, whatever handle material you have that's dark and tough, whatever pin arrangement on the handle you fancy, kydex sheath if you do those or no bother i can do my own. what do you reckon you'd charge for such a thing?
 
hello @Gbhcustomknives , got a "wish list" question for you.

i've been coveting a "big chopper" for a while now, something like this (just and example for discussion purposes):

View attachment 33413

assuming a carbon steel blade, plain or rough finish on the flat, blade length of 12ish inches, full tang, exposed tang at the butt (as a striker), stock thickness of 5 or 6 mm, sabre or convex grind, whatever handle material you have that's dark and tough, whatever pin arrangement on the handle you fancy, kydex sheath if you do those or no bother i can do my own. what do you reckon you'd charge for such a thing?
125 to 150 depending on the handle material micarta is a really good and tough handle material and comes in a ton of colours but it would be no problem to make for you I haven't done kydex sheaths only leather I do need to get some though at some point let me know what you think and also the area your from thanks
 
nice price! you may have yourself a customer.

i'm in Scotland, you can use KY3 9BS to calculate the shipping.

cheap and tough is good for the handle because i tend to reshape them to suit my whimsies anyway. micarta sounds fine as long as it's not too pricey, maybe some two-tone thing to suit the blade (black and light grey maybe ???). obviously i'm not too picky on this particular point. :D

no worries, forget the sheath. i'm getting back into leatherwork after a 25 year hiatus so i'll bang something up and call it a day.

does it make any difference if we go for a fuller drop (50% maybe) or possibly a spey point on the blade? had good luck with those over the years, thought one or the other might suit the chopper too. not sure about strength and durability issues. thoughts?
 
thought i might add a couple pics to help. here's an example of some micarta that i though might go well:

micarta-black-and-grey.png


and regarding the blade point, this is what i meant by a spey point blade:

spey-point-blade.png


i realize that this is something you'd typically see on pocket knives but i thought it might work for the chopper, the idea being that you've got a lot of meat at the point and also a good amount of forward weight for the task at hand (chopping, obviously). i'm just guessing at these things though, happy to defer to your better judgement.
 
Well the fullers are for looks really you can have one in the blade if you'd like and I can give it a slight drop point also I'll have a play with some ideas and ill draw something up and see what you think I put a fuller in the last bowie knife I did see
thought i might add a couple pics to help. here's an example of some micarta that i though might go well:

View attachment 33421

and regarding the blade point, this is what i meant by a spey point blade:

View attachment 33422

i realize that this is something you'd typically see on pocket knives but i thought it might work for the chopper, the idea being that you've got a lot of meat at the point and also a good amount of forward weight for the task at hand (chopping, obviously). i'm just guessing at these things though, happy to defer to your better
 

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Well the fullers are for looks really you can have one in the blade if you'd like and I can give it a slight drop point also I'll have a play with some ideas and ill draw something up and see what you think I put a fuller in the last bowie knife I did see
Yeah that's the micarta I was thinking and would you prefer the shape you sent me or would this shape suit you better?
 

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Yeah that's the micarta I was thinking and would you prefer the shape you sent me or would this shape suit you better?
oh no, the shape you have is much better. as a matter of fact it could even be more pronounced on the drop, as in post #5 above.

sounds like we're agreed on the micarta. ๐Ÿ‘

as to the fuller, not sure i see the point really. i get that they look nice but it's work for you and a feature i don't feel the need for. this thing is going to be for busting dead trees into firewood and such like, i'm happy to keep it functional. so i'd say skip the fuller unless there is some compelling reason to do otherwise.

as to the point: durability, forward weight and ease of sharpening are my primary considerations there. as i imagine it this thing isn't going to need much of a point on it because it's not really for poking at or through anything. in fact a fair number of choppers like this forgo a point all together. for example:

kharvik-forge_big-bushcraft-blade-no4.png


that's from a guy in the Ukraine (?) called KharkivForge on etsy. he does some great stuff! anyway, the "point" being :D that sturdiness and forward weight are good things here, more "machete/cleaver" and less "bowie knife" i think. another issue with the point is the less it looks like a fighting knife the better. something like this would do too i think:

kharvik-forge_big-bushcraft-blade-no2_point.png


just thinking of the shape of the point here, not (necessarily) the fit and finish of the blade.

in the end i guess anything relatively stubby and functional is the goal.
 
Ok well I can snub the nose and make it less pointy ( lol that's the technical name for it ) but I will need a deposit to cover materials that you can send through PayPal to protect your money I've been burnt before by making a blade and not being paid for it and I'm not saying you'd do that just have to have reassurance just let me know
 
sure thing, let me know the details for payment -- via Conversation perhaps? -- and we can get started.
 
oh, and i should have asked this already: what steel where you planning on using? not that i have any expert knowledge of the likely candidates but it would be good to know.

actually that brings up another feature i'd like: the steel type stamped into the blade, in the ricasso is i think a common choice.
 
Ok my pay pal is it will just be ยฃ40 to cover materials and ill order materials and draw up what the blade will look like and get your thoughts and input if you'd like it making ๐Ÿ‘
 
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Ok my pay pal is it will just be ยฃ40 to cover materials and ill order materials and draw up what the blade will look like and get your thoughts and input if you'd like it making ๐Ÿ‘

hi mate if you use the little envelope symbol at the top of the page, it will take you to the private message section, just type in the persons name ie teef and put your details on that buddy ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป

better there than on the public section ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป
 
Ok my pay pal is it will just be ยฃ40 to cover materials and ill order materials and draw up what the blade will look like and get your thoughts and input if you'd like it making ๐Ÿ‘
Hey I'm back just drew up a quick sketch and went over it in marker so you can see it I was thinking of something like this or if there is a definite shape you'd like just let me know or how you'd like it to look I want you to be 100% happy with style shape and stuff let me know
 

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looks like a good start! some thoughts:
  • absolutely leave the scale on above the grind unless there is some compelling reason to do otherwise.
  • skip the false edge. i'm thinking it's a cosmetic feature i don't particularly see the need for.
  • drop the point a bit.
  • drop the butt as well, this would of course give the whole handle a bit of a drop .
  • expose the tang at the butt by maybe a cm or so (can be handy as striker/hammer).
i've rummaged up a few pictures that might help clarify the above a little (they're just examples, visual aids).

these first two images -- the Kharkiv Forge Machete #6 and the British MOD Survival Knife -- are both pretty fair examples of the drop point tip.
the Machete #6 also illustrates the pronounced drop on the handle which i think would be good.

kharkiv-forge-big-knife-no6_markup.png
mod-survival-knife_markup.jpg

as far as the handle goes here's another idea -- the Kodiak Chopper -- that looks appealing, the whole handle is angled down a bit. another way to achieve the dropped butt:

kodiak-chopper.png

and finally some rough ideas for the exposed butt, the Mora Garberg and the Condor Terrasaur. these are just illustrations of intentionally exposing the tang at the butt in order to be able to use it as a striker, impromptu hammer, etc. i've even seen examples where more of the tang is exposed at the butt and the lanyard hole is drilled through that (see last pic, i believe it's called the Gladius).

condor-terrasaur_exposed-butt.png
mora-garberg_exposed-butt.png
gladius -exposed-tang.jpg

overall, in terms of aesthetics i'd have to say the the Kharkiv Forge Machete #6 pretty much nails it for me: basic, tough and highly functional. just a thought.
 
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