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Weihrauch 100

I have the A&M cylinder on my 100, better shot count and the handling is much better with the alloy cylinder. As mentioned before, ditch the barrel band, the hw barrel is sturdy enough without it.
But Is the barrel as sturdy? If you remove the band the barrel will then be more succeptable to knocks and bumps etc which In turn would cause poi shift and unreliability. And also don't forget that all that holds the HW100 barrel to the action Is a grub screw and that grub screw can come loose. The way I look at It Is, that the barrel band Is put there for a reason so why remove It? And I know that some people reckon that removing the barrel band makes the HW100 more accurate and free floating but personally speaking I very much doubt it.

I bought my HW100 brand new back In January 2013 and the rifle Is still a tac driver 9 years later. And that's with the barrel band fitted 😎
 
This Theoben HE system is up for auction on the 13th. Is this a rifle worth buying,
and what do you think it's worth?

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I bought my HW100 brand new back In January 2013 and the rifle Is still a tac driver 9 years later. And that's with the barrel band fitted 😎
I can only speak from my experience of the Coyote. Its zero kept shifting, until I took off the barrel band, after which it became totally consistent. It's stayed that way ever since.

Given the thickness of its barrel, knocking against something isn't going to affect zero at all, unless the scope takes a knock. That's why I always check zero before any shooting session.
 
I can only speak from my experience of the Coyote. Its zero kept shifting, until I took off the barrel band, after which it became totally consistent. It's stayed that way ever since.

Given the thickness of its barrel, knocking against something isn't going to affect zero at all, unless the scope takes a knock. That's why I always check zero before any shooting session.
Fair enough. But Is the barrel on the Gamo Coyote only held In place by a single grub screw like the HW100? I'm only asking because I don't know anything about the Coyote?
 
But Is the barrel as sturdy? If you remove the band the barrel will then be more succeptable to knocks and bumps etc which In turn would cause poi shift and unreliability. And also don't forget that all that holds the HW100 barrel to the action Is a grub screw and that grub screw can come loose. The way I look at It Is, that the barrel band Is put there for a reason so why remove It? And I know that some people reckon that removing the barrel band makes the HW100 more accurate and free floating but personally speaking I very much doubt it.

I bought my HW100 brand new back In January 2013 and the rifle Is still a tac driver 9 years later. And that's with the barrel band fitted 😎
The grub screw on the 100 only holds the barrel in the block and I use locktite to keep it tight. It has plenty of lateral support once it’s slid in to the block.

I’ve also had my 100 for 9 years and as I’m a one gun man it’s had all my attention and I know it inside out.

What I’ve found by free floating the barrel and binning the barrel band is a more consistent POI through out the year.
Only minor tweaks are needed going from summer to winter temperatures due to fps changes and scope changes.

Yes the std set up is a tac driver but I found I needed to make more adjustments to the POI with varying conditions.
It’s worth experimenting as removing the barrel band costs nothing and can be easily reversed.
You won’t see miracle improvements but I found long term it’s more consistent.
 
This Theoben HE system is up for auction on the 13th. Is this a rifle worth buying,
and what do you think it's worth?

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These usually fetch decent money, I would estimate £350 ish but I might be miles out, they are very collectable. Looks like it may take some effort to cook with that short barrel, a gas ram I think not a springer.
 

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These usually fetch decent money, I would estimate £350 ish but I might be miles out, they are very collectable. Looks like it may take some effort to cook with that short barrel, a gas ram I think not a springer.
Thanks for the info mate, will have a think because as you say it looks like a beast to cock.:):)
 
Fair enough. But Is the barrel on the Gamo Coyote only held In place by a single grub screw like the HW100? I'm only asking because I don't know anything about the Coyote?
I think it had 2 or 3 grub screws holding it in place. Either way, the barrel boinged when I took the band off, so it was way too tight. The barrel was torqued off true, so any slight variation in cylinder pressure was sending the barrel off zero.
 
Dont know what happened there missed out my typing.
Yes it is a great gun and I have one but getting too old for a break barrel so will sell mine soon,current prices range from about 300 for a good one and more for one in mint with the Hydura stock if that how you spell it.It is the FENMAN model.
 
Just a note on the Fenman,cocking is no worse that any break barrel and dont be deceived by the short barrel,it is an Anschutz barrel and very,very accurate.Theoben made some excellent guns and that is what put them out of business,they cost more to make that they were sold for.
I bought mine a few years ago and last year resealed it and set the power to around 11.3,the previous owner damaged the stock but it was repaired and does not show.I was told he dropped the gun on the floor after removing the mounting bolts and the barrel unit took a little piece out of the stock.
Setting the fps is done by adjusting the pressure and this is very easy with a gun foot pump but not from a bottle.
 
I think it had 2 or 3 grub screws holding it in place. Either way, the barrel boinged when I took the band off, so it was way too tight. The barrel was torqued off true, so any slight variation in cylinder pressure was sending the barrel off zero.
I think this might also be what's causing poi probs with the S510 i've sent back, when the silencer is pushed
onto the barrel and shroud you can see the barrel lift up slightly. It was also more accurate without the silencer.
On the other hand my son in laws Hatsan at44 was more accurate when i moved one of the retaining bands right
to the very end of the cylinder, on the outside of the fill valve even.
 
Are the barrels on pcp thinner than those on break barrels?
And does the barrel band use the cylinder to support the barrel or the barrel to support the cylinder.
Barrel is surely sturdier than the cylinder?
 
Are the barrels on pcp thinner than those on break barrels?
And does the barrel band use the cylinder to support the barrel or the barrel to support the cylinder.
Barrel is surely sturdier than the cylinder?
Barrels are generally the same thickness, since they have to contain the same pressures. The barrel band is supposed to anchor the barrel to the cylinder to stop the barrel getting accidentally knocked out of true. I would guess that the greater diameter of the cylinder means it has greater purchase against the action, and is therefore less likely to be bent out of shape by a knock.
 
I don't think we need to worry to much about knocking the barrels considering the forces repeatedly applied to break and cock a breaker.
I don't know 🤷‍♂️
 
The cylinder would be many times stronger and robust than the barrel. Probably why most makers especially
of hunting rifles fix the barrels to them. The old rapids were floaters though.
 
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