sarfarm
Slightly Addicted
- Messages
- 298
- Points
- 40
- Age
- 81
CRAPWhat do you think of the 110 st?
CRAPWhat do you think of the 110 st?
Any chance of a bit more info regarding your well-thought-out reply?CRAP
But Is the barrel as sturdy? If you remove the band the barrel will then be more succeptable to knocks and bumps etc which In turn would cause poi shift and unreliability. And also don't forget that all that holds the HW100 barrel to the action Is a grub screw and that grub screw can come loose. The way I look at It Is, that the barrel band Is put there for a reason so why remove It? And I know that some people reckon that removing the barrel band makes the HW100 more accurate and free floating but personally speaking I very much doubt it.I have the A&M cylinder on my 100, better shot count and the handling is much better with the alloy cylinder. As mentioned before, ditch the barrel band, the hw barrel is sturdy enough without it.
I can only speak from my experience of the Coyote. Its zero kept shifting, until I took off the barrel band, after which it became totally consistent. It's stayed that way ever since.I bought my HW100 brand new back In January 2013 and the rifle Is still a tac driver 9 years later. And that's with the barrel band fitted
Fair enough. But Is the barrel on the Gamo Coyote only held In place by a single grub screw like the HW100? I'm only asking because I don't know anything about the Coyote?I can only speak from my experience of the Coyote. Its zero kept shifting, until I took off the barrel band, after which it became totally consistent. It's stayed that way ever since.
Given the thickness of its barrel, knocking against something isn't going to affect zero at all, unless the scope takes a knock. That's why I always check zero before any shooting session.
The grub screw on the 100 only holds the barrel in the block and I use locktite to keep it tight. It has plenty of lateral support once it’s slid in to the block.But Is the barrel as sturdy? If you remove the band the barrel will then be more succeptable to knocks and bumps etc which In turn would cause poi shift and unreliability. And also don't forget that all that holds the HW100 barrel to the action Is a grub screw and that grub screw can come loose. The way I look at It Is, that the barrel band Is put there for a reason so why remove It? And I know that some people reckon that removing the barrel band makes the HW100 more accurate and free floating but personally speaking I very much doubt it.
I bought my HW100 brand new back In January 2013 and the rifle Is still a tac driver 9 years later. And that's with the barrel band fitted
These usually fetch decent money, I would estimate £350 ish but I might be miles out, they are very collectable. Looks like it may take some effort to cook with that short barrel, a gas ram I think not a springer.This Theoben HE system is up for auction on the 13th. Is this a rifle worth buying,
and what do you think it's worth?
Thanks for the info mate, will have a think because as you say it looks like a beast to cock.These usually fetch decent money, I would estimate £350 ish but I might be miles out, they are very collectable. Looks like it may take some effort to cook with that short barrel, a gas ram I think not a springer.
I think it had 2 or 3 grub screws holding it in place. Either way, the barrel boinged when I took the band off, so it was way too tight. The barrel was torqued off true, so any slight variation in cylinder pressure was sending the barrel off zero.Fair enough. But Is the barrel on the Gamo Coyote only held In place by a single grub screw like the HW100? I'm only asking because I don't know anything about the Coyote?
Yes it seems to be a poor copy of the 100 and lots of plastic,not for me thanks.Any chance of a bit more info regarding your well-thought-out reply?
I think this might also be what's causing poi probs with the S510 i've sent back, when the silencer is pushedI think it had 2 or 3 grub screws holding it in place. Either way, the barrel boinged when I took the band off, so it was way too tight. The barrel was torqued off true, so any slight variation in cylinder pressure was sending the barrel off zero.
Barrels are generally the same thickness, since they have to contain the same pressures. The barrel band is supposed to anchor the barrel to the cylinder to stop the barrel getting accidentally knocked out of true. I would guess that the greater diameter of the cylinder means it has greater purchase against the action, and is therefore less likely to be bent out of shape by a knock.Are the barrels on pcp thinner than those on break barrels?
And does the barrel band use the cylinder to support the barrel or the barrel to support the cylinder.
Barrel is surely sturdier than the cylinder?