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Wood carving..... knife sharpening and maintenance.

1 shot willie

1 shot willie

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For general maintenance and sharpening of knives and axes I have been using the old favourites.....wet stones......diamond stones.......oil stones.....pucks etc.
Good enough for bushcraft/camping knives and axes.....but messy..... I want to go the extra mile and get that honed and stropped mega sharp edge for the wood carving and detailing knives/tools.

Made the decision to go down the float glass block route..... using self adhesive wet and dry papers in varying grades 1200 - 3000 - 7000..... and investing in some Kangaroo leather to use with the compound ( Verytaz)
Last stage will be using clean Kangaroo leather on another block to finish off.

Making the blocks using Iroko hardwood.....250 x 100 x 50mm........gone a bit bigger than most stone sizes.

All the bits and pieces ordered and on the way and I am looking forward to making and using the new to me system. :thumbsup:

Pictures and more details.....+ results to follow :)
 
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For any of the newbies on here thinking of taking up wood carving for the first time this is what I do.
I usually just make walking sticks and I always do the initial rough carving while the wood is still soft and green.
I know from experience just what it's like to carve seasoned hardwood and have had the blistered fingers to prove it
if like me you like cutting spirals into walking sticks get yourself a roll of gaffer tape and wind some round your stick in the width of the spiral you want to cut and use the edge of the tape as a guide
.I use very sharp knives, the saw on my multi tool and a half round rasp. Finally you don't need fancy expensive carving tools. A small pen knife or better still a multi tool with a saw blade, A round surform rasp and some sand paper in various grade.
Oh and I forgot to mention a first aid kit with about a thousand plasters in various sizes.
@ 1 shot willie please feel free to add to this
 
Years ago I dismantled a rolls razor case and took the whetstone and strop out of the case. These were stuck either side of a strip of hardwood with metal polish or polishing compound worked into the leather strop. This gives most knives a wicked edge. The whetstone is only 4mm thick so it’s a bit fragile but it’s extremely fine grade. The hardwood handle gives a safe grip.
 
Got a couple of them in the shop Mike.....only display items though.....what a brilliant piece of engineering........way before it's time when it came out :thumbsup:
 
Joecole said:
For any of the newbies on here thinking of taking up wood carving for the first time this is what I do.
I usually just make walking sticks and I always do the initial rough carving while the wood is still soft and green.
I know from experience just what it's like to carve seasoned hardwood and have had the blistered fingers to prove it
if like me you like cutting spirals into walking sticks get yourself a roll of gaffer tape and wind some round your stick in the width of the spiral you want to cut and use the edge of the tape as a guide
.I use very sharp knives, the saw on my multi tool and a half round rasp. Finally you don't need fancy expensive carving tools. A small pen knife or better still a multi tool with a saw blade, A round surform rasp and some sand paper in various grade.
Oh and I forgot to mention a first aid kit with about a thousand plasters in various sizes.
@ 1 shot willie please feel free to add to this
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Couldn't agree more Joe.....as long as you can carve away and enjoy yourself.....you do not need all the bells and whistles......just have fun :)
 
1 shot willie said:
Got a couple of them in the shop Mike.....only display items though.....what a brilliant piece of engineering........way before it's time when it came out :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I have one that I still use sometimes. It drags a little compared to modern safety razors but considering it's over 60 years old it's pretty damn good. The sharpening stone is extremely hard and fine. I've not found a better one yet.
 
Ystranc said:
I have one that I still use sometimes. It drags a little compared to modern safety razors but considering it's over 60 years old it's pretty damn good. The sharpening stone is extremely hard and fine. I've not found a better one yet.
Click to expand...
Wit regards to sharpening blades if you lack any of the strops and stones you can use the top edge of one of your car windows. Just wind the window down and you have the equivalent of a diamond sharpener and you can give your blade a razor sharp edge
 
I put a thin hardish mouse mat under the wet and dry on top of a glass sheet, seems to work for me. I don't know where to get it any more but I got some very fine micromesh abrasive paper down to 8000 grit, which is excellent for finishing an edge and it lasts ages.
 
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Last bit I have been waiting for to get on with the job turned up yesterday 🙂......now ready for the off.

Float glass

Hardwood for blocks

Gorilla clear glue

Kangaroo leather

Self adhesive wet and dry sheets

Veritas honing compound
20230607_085635.jpg
 
Well there we have it......all done and ready to go.
I left the float glass block at full thickness of 50mm.....giving more room to work.....no knuckles banging on a work surface.
I split another block down the middle to make two at 25mm.

Need to clean the glass when it's all properly dried.
Gave the edges of the blocks a coat of walnut oil to bring out the colour of the wood.

Gave the Kangaroo strop a light rub over with the viritas.

So there.....all ready to sharpen the wood carving knives.

20230607_124458.jpg
20230607_124442.jpg
 
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