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Chainsaw

Tried it going back when I lived in Yorkshire. Not very successfull! Probably get a 16 inch bar and chain. My other Stihl is 14 inch.
 
About 20 years ago a friend wanted to convert a Portuguese saddle into a medieval jousting saddle. It required the construction of two timber sections one that sat behind the rider curving around his rump and a front section that covers the crotch and upper legs. It's a sort of upturned U with curves in all planes. I constructed it out of two pieces of oak approximately 8" x 3" joined with a slip tenon. It was a bit of trial and error but I still clearly remember how my friend came round with the front section needing some adjustments. Even more memorable was his face when I put it on the bench and got out my chainsaw. Wasn't quite chainsaw carving but they are a good tool for making complex curves .
 
Ystranc said:
That looks like a carving bar, did you fancy trying chainsaw sculpting?
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Carving bar has a more pointed and solid stellite tip, that's the standard MS170 bar

divebuddy said:
Tried it going back when I lived in Yorkshire. Not very successfull! Probably get a 16 inch bar and chain. My other Stihl is 14 inch.
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16 inch might be a bit ambitious for a little saw like MS170, it runs a narrow kerf chain to lighten the load a bit.
 
Cheers, thinks it’s one of the ones I’ve been looking at, all
seem very similar, almost as if they are all made in the same Chinese factory and get different stickers added on each day of the week!

38
 
Very happy. I bought some new chains as spares but so far I have only changed the chain once. I sharpened the original twice and then couldn't be bothered to sharpen again so changed it for a new one. Batteries are lasting well,
 
Baytree said:
I had a friend give me a chainsaw a little while ago. A bosch electric. He said there's something wrong with it as the chain kept coming off after a few minutes. I cleaned and checked it , tensioned it and put oil in it and tried it out and it's working fine. That made me think a chainsaw is probably not the best tool for him to own. Incidentally last year I brought the chainsaw sharpening tool from Lidl , cost about £20 and it's a decent enough tool. Ok so you need a bench and a power supply but it's a lot easier and quicker than a file and probably cheaper than buying files in the long run.
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The only down side to electric sharpeners is the tendency to take off too much if you use them every time but they’re fantastic for restoring your chains geometry to get each and every cutting link back to the same length and angle, when you have them all set you can then do your depth guides (also known as rakers) and your saw should then cut perfectly strait. This gives you a great starting point when you return to field sharpening with a file and guide.
Trying to use a saw that isn’t cutting strait means it will jam up in larger diameter logs and the chain will overheat from excessive friction. This puts excessive wear on the drive links, drive sprocket and guide bar as well as wasting fuel.
 
divebuddy said:
Very happy. I bought some new chains as spares but so far I have only changed the chain once. I sharpened the original twice and then couldn't be bothered to sharpen again so changed it for a new one. Batteries are lasting well,
Click to expand...
I read somewhere that because they don’t auto oil the chain then it’s something you need to do yourself to prolong chain life, someone suggested using a small paintbrush to thinly oil it every so often, at least every battery change and at the end of a task were suggested.

38
 
Clear oil push button and reservoir
fill port .

IMG_20230416_125911.jpg
 
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