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Sharpening and polishing advice required.

dmwboatboy

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For Christmas my lovely wife brought me a Martindale's golok which I had been eyeing up for several months. It's finish is very basic and roughly done so I would like to get it in better shape and hopefully get a bit of shine to the meat of the knife as well as get a nice edge to business end. How would I be best going about getting these jobs done.
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Before you go to the trouble of buy sharpening stones, get some leather off cuts and make a strip with some wood and double sided tape(plenty of ytube vids 👍🏻) get some polishing compound and work it into the leather then buff the edges up, this should sort it out . However if you get a ding or any damage to the edge then you’ll need a sharpening stone or a puk 👍🏻
 
Before you go to the trouble of buy sharpening stones, get some leather off cuts and make a strip with some wood and double sided tape(plenty of ytube vids 👍🏻) get some polishing compound and work it into the leather then buff the edges up, this should sort it out . However if you get a ding or any damage to the edge then you’ll need a sharpening stone or a puk 👍🏻
Cheers for the reply. The blade has a bad burr to the cutting edge currently.It came with a crocodile file but not tried that as yet and I've got a polishing stone up the shed but I'll certainly check out the videos you describe.
 
Sorry to say but the steel used in Martindale machetes is pretty poor and will never take much of an edge. They’re bulk agricultural tools for hacking and slashing rather than blades suited to taking a fine edge. Peening the edge will slim it down and work harden it but I’m afraid it’s like polishing a turd.
 
Sorry to say but the steel used in Martindale machetes is pretty poor and will never take much of an edge. They’re bulk agricultural tools for hacking and slashing rather than blades suited to taking a fine edge. Peening the edge will slim it down and work harden it but I’m afraid it’s like polishing a turd.
You can expect much for the price really and won't be using it for trying to chop down trees but it's certainly very rough around the edges. Being military issue you would think it would be slightly better.
 
You can expect much for the price really and won't be using it for trying to chop down trees but it's certainly very rough around the edges. Being military issue you would think it would be slightly better.
Being military issue I would expect it to be overweight and overpriced. Don’t get me wrong, I have a martindale golock, bolo and a sugar harvesting machete for cutting brash at ground level…they all do their job but they’re not great tools.
 
In my experience parangs are generally not quality items. They are basic work-a-day tools for use in tropical, jungle environments by people who mostly want something cheap and practical. They don't have much practical use in this country. Having said that, Ystranc uses one, though there may be better tools, for cutting brash - so they are not useless. Quality knives and axes can be sharpened to 'shaving sharp' for a very good reason - they need to be quality to get this sharpness and they need this sharpness to do the job they were intended for - parangs don't. A parangs just needs to be sharp, and a basic stone will give them a good enough edge for them to do the job that they were intended to do. You have a nice piece of kit, very useful in certain circumstances, but to try to make it shaving sharp and shiny seem to me to be rather futile. You need the right tool for the job. I bought a parang to go to the jungles of Belize, I have never used it in the UK - apart from cutting down some nettles and brambles. A quality axe or knife will serve you better here, and you can make them shaving sharp and shiny, just like they deserve to be.
 
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I would start with an entry level, good quality folding pocket knife that is legal to carry if you’re out and about. There isn’t much that can’t be done with a Swiss Army knife as long as you accept that it may take a while and using it is a compromise between legality and efficiency. Is it the best tool for the job?…probably not.. However it is a tool that you always have with you and will do the job in an emergency.
 
Quality knives and axes can be sharpened to 'shaving sharp' for a very good reason - they need to be quality to get this sharpness and they need this sharpness to do the job they were intended for - parangs don't. A parangs just needs to be sharp, and a basic stone will give them a good enough edge for them to do the job that they were intended to do. A quality axe or knife will serve you better here, and you can make them shaving sharp and shiny, just like they deserve to be.
I'm a carpenter by trade and though they seem to be falling out of favour nowadays I've used an axe throughout my working life. Like others I've done the "getting the axe sharp enough to shave with" bit and there were sometimes a few of us with less hair on one arm than the other. It was more an exercise in " just because we can" really. In general we keep our axes sharp enough , that is to say we can use it as a thrust axe if needed and pare with it by pushing rather than swinging it. As sharp as a chisel but not quite as sharp as a razor. I've eased doors with my axe. Sharpening technique is probably as important as the tool used to do the sharpening and practice is important. I carry a machette in the van as I also nowadays do a bit of garden maintainence too . I use a file or carbo stone to maintain the edge and don't try to make it any sharper or better looking.
 
In my experience parangs are generally not quality items. They are basic work-a-day tools for use in tropical, jungle environments by people who mostly want something cheap and practical. They don't have much practical use in this country. Having said that, Ystranc uses one, though there may be better tools, for cutting brash - so they are not useless. Quality knives and axes can be sharpened to 'shaving sharp' for a very good reason - they need to be quality to get this sharpness and they need this sharpness to do the job they were intended for - parangs don't. A parangs just needs to be sharp, and a basic stone will give them a good enough edge for them to do the job that they were intended to do. You have a nice piece of kit, very useful in certain circumstances, but to try to make it shaving sharp and shiny seem to me to be rather futile. You need the right tool for the job. I bought a parang to go to the jungles of Belize, I have never used it in the UK - apart from cutting down some nettles and brambles. A quality axe or knife will serve you better here, and you can make them shaving sharp and shiny, just like they deserve to be.
We have a small narrowboat which we are often adventuring along the canal or rivers so alot of its main use will be for chopping back reeds,weeds, brambles and some light duty branches. I've got folding saws and a nice size vintage axe which do for bigger things. If I was to look at getting a better quality galok size tool do you have any recommendations.
 
I would start with an entry level, good quality folding pocket knife that is legal to carry if you’re out and about. There isn’t much that can’t be done with a Swiss Army knife as long as you accept that it may take a while and using it is a compromise between legality and efficiency. Is it the best tool for the job?…probably not.. However it is a tool that you always have with you and will do the job in an emergency.
Hi I've got several Swiss army knifes and a couple of UK legal hunting knifes for when out shooting and need to field dress things. The galok will mainly see river and canal side vegetation so should be upto the job. Any recommendations on stronger more versatile tool of this size?
 
Personally I would choose a small forest axe or limbing axe over a machete every time. Around a kilo axe head (2 and a quarter lbs) with an 18” to 24” hickory helve. It will do everything from kindling to felling. (Edit) The Martindale sugar knife is a machete but only the angled tip is sharpened and is ideal for clearing soft bankside weeds and brambles..it won’t do woody growth though.
 
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Personally I would choose a small forest axe or limbing axe over a machete every time. Around a kilo axe head (2 and a quarter lbs) with an 18” to 24” hickory helve. It will do everything from kindling to felling.
Cheers I'll have an Investigate
 
I'm a carpenter by trade and though they seem to be falling out of favour nowadays I've used an axe throughout my working life. Like others I've done the "getting the axe sharp enough to shave with" bit and there were sometimes a few of us with less hair on one arm than the other. It was more an exercise in " just because we can" really. In general we keep our axes sharp enough , that is to say we can use it as a thrust axe if needed and pare with it by pushing rather than swinging it. As sharp as a chisel but not quite as sharp as a razor. I've eased doors with my axe. Sharpening technique is probably as important as the tool used to do the sharpening and practice is important. I carry a machette in the van as I also nowadays do a bit of garden maintainence too . I use a file or carbo stone to maintain the edge and don't try to make it any sharper or better looking.
Chisel sharp is a great description. Still sharp but not as fragile as a razor edge. Razor sharp axes are a bit of an affectation unless you’re only using it for carving.
 
I'm a carpenter by trade and though they seem to be falling out of favour nowadays I've used an axe throughout my working life. Like others I've done the "getting the axe sharp enough to shave with" bit and there were sometimes a few of us with less hair on one arm than the other. It was more an exercise in " just because we can" really. In general we keep our axes sharp enough , that is to say we can use it as a thrust axe if needed and pare with it by pushing rather than swinging it. As sharp as a chisel but not quite as sharp as a razor. I've eased doors with my axe. Sharpening technique is probably as important as the tool used to do the sharpening and practice is important. I carry a machette in the van as I also nowadays do a bit of garden maintainence too . I use a file or carbo stone to maintain the edge and don't try to make it any sharper or better looking.
Very good point. :thumbsup:
 
I'm a carpenter by trade and though they seem to be falling out of favour nowadays I've used an axe throughout my working life.

Me too.
I was only the other day saying on a woodworking faceache page how many carpenters carry an axe these days. Or how many know the difference between a jointing plane and a try plane.

But back on topic b4 we get shouted at.
I do the vast majority of my sharpening with a 25 year old DTM diamond stone that's still going strong. I remember thinking when I bought it "fcek me at nearly ÂŁ60 this thing better be fookin good", thankfully it is.
 
Personally I would choose a small forest axe or limbing axe over a machete every time. Around a kilo axe head (2 and a quarter lbs) with an 18” to 24” hickory helve. It will do everything from kindling to felling. (Edit) The Martindale sugar knife is a machete but only the angled tip is sharpened and is ideal for clearing soft bankside weeds and brambles..it won’t do woody growth though.
I have had one of these for about 15 years. Never new what it was but very useful.
 
Me too.
I was only the other day saying on a woodworking faceache page how many carpenters carry an axe these days. Or how many know the difference between a jointing plane and a try plane.

But back on topic b4 we get shouted at.
I do the vast majority of my sharpening with a 25 year old DTM diamond stone that's still going strong. I remember thinking when I bought
At the risk of getting shouted at...
The two tools I carry that get the most remarks are my axe and rebate plane. Saying that actually cutting with a handsaw seems to draw comment too.
Most of my sharpening is done with a carborundum stone purchased in the early 80's and lubricated with white spirit rather than oil. There have been occasions where I've forgotten to take the stone to work and have resorted to using sandpaper , or a stone block or even a concrete slab has been used. Should really remember to keep the stone with me but it moves between the van and the workshop. I do have a waterstone . Greenish grey in colour and it puts an absolutely cracking edge on a tool but you can literally watch it wearing away so I don't tend to use it very often. I also have a couple of diamond stones with are used more to touch up router cutters more than anything else.
 
At the risk of getting shouted at...
The two tools I carry that get the most remarks are my axe and rebate plane. Saying that actually cutting with a handsaw seems to draw comment too.
Most of my sharpening is done with a carborundum stone purchased in the early 80's and lubricated with white spirit rather than oil. There have been occasions where I've forgotten to take the stone to work and have resorted to using sandpaper , or a stone block or even a concrete slab has been used. Should really remember to keep the stone with me but it moves between the van and the workshop. I do have a waterstone . Greenish grey in colour and it puts an absolutely cracking edge on a tool but you can literally watch it wearing away so I don't tend to use it very often. I also have a couple of diamond stones with are used more to touch up router cutters more than anything else.
I don't think you'll get shouted at for adding gems of wisdom. It's dragging the thread off topic and into the mire of comedy and taking the ssip out of each other that causes problems.
I have for a long time thought that very often the old ways of doing things are the best - tried and tested. The modern equivalents may be quicker and easier but often they do not do as good a job. White spirit - what a cracking idea, wish I'd thought of that.
 
I tend to collect washita stones whenever I find them. They tend to retail at at least forty pounds so buying one at under a tenner counts as a win. I submerge them in water before use.
 
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